Pug 106 Modification Guide
In my 3 years of owning my quiksilver it has been a slammed show car, a stripped out track car and now full gti spec
I have been meaning to write an upgrade guide for a few months now and thought I might aswell get on with it 
Im going to discuss every aspect of the quiksilver (although most of these modifications would be applicable to any of the peugeot 106 range), the upgrades available, the difficulty to do them yourself and the cost
I cannot comment on cost of the work at garages because I have done all the work on my car myself
I hope you enjoy the guide and find it useful…
Wheels
Standard alloys/steelies are 14″
15’s are my personal choice, with 195/45 tyres you keep a fairly accurate speedo and good handling, you can also lower the car up to 50mm without any bodywork mods
16’s will go on the car if running with 195/40 tyres and a 50mm drop is easy if you dont mind bending the arch lips back on the front and losing your inner arch linings
17’s are a lot more hard work, a drop of 30mm will suit the wheels well but be prepared to cut the front arches back slightly behind the plastic extensions, and on the back you have to trim some of the bumper mounting brackets - but it is do-able if you have patience and a day free
Whatever you decide on make sure the PCD is 4×108 and the offset is between 15 and 18mm
Brakes
The standard quiksilver brakes are absolutely appauling, the calipers are shockingly badly designed, the discs are small and non-vented
The cheapest, easiest and one of the best upgrades you can ever do is to buy some GTi calipers, discs and pads
The calipers will bolt straight onto the quiksilver, you just need the 2 mounting bolts that hold the caliper to the strut as they are shorter than the ones used on quiksilver brakes
The brake line will fit straight on (you will need to bleed the brakes afterwards
Always buy new discs and pads, dont trust ones from scrap yards
My GTi calipers cost me £10 - and they have been on the car for 2 years with no problems
They regularaly go for about £40 on ebay and forums but look out for cheap bargains on saxo vtr/vts in scrap yards
Discs cost about £40 from your local motor factors and pads about £20 - uprated items are common. Mintex pads are good, ferodo DS3000’s are the best you can get but not road legal and make a lot of brake dust.
Other upgrades include 206 gti-180 brakes and 306 gti-6, both are good upgrades but cost money - usually around the £200 mark
I went for a hi-spec big disc conversion
This gives you 285mm discs and spacers so you use your standard gti calipers
The kit cost around £200 and is awesome.. the car brakes fantastically and was money well spent, but I would only really recommend going past gti brakes if you are using your car for track days or regularly drive “enthusiastically”. The gti brakes are more than enough to stop a 106
Rear brakes are ok as drums, if you do want to upgrade to a gti rear beam read the suspension section next…
Suspension
Springs and shocks can be changed for gti items but is fairly pointless, uprated shocks and springs can be bought from various places. Billstein are brilliant but its totally up to personal choice.
The front anti roll bar can be swapped for a gti item - it takes about 30minutes to do and my gti ARB cost me £20
On gti’s and xsi’s there is a strengthening bar attaching the wishbones to the chassis. It acts as a lower strut brace to prevent flexing during cornering. Mine just cost me £3 from a saxo vts in a scrap yard and took 15 minutes to fit.
The rear beam can be swappped for a gti item, giving you stiffer torsion bars and a thicker anti roll bar.
My rear beam cost £160 and took a day to fit - you will need the handbrake cables from a gti and some brake lines making up. Its not an easy job unless your fairly competent with a spanner
If you are going to lower the rear beam do it properly and remove the torsion bars. Anyone who tells you to do it by “clicks” is asking for trouble. Both myself and 2 friends have had rear beams collapse after having been lowered the “clicks” method
There are plenty of guides on the internet for lowering but again its a tricky job so if your not fairly confident, get someone who is to do it
Engine
First of all the induction system on the quiksivler has a restrictor pipe in it to lower the power of the engine and help it get a low insurance group
Any good induction kit will increase power but I would definatly go for a “closed system” if you can afford it
These systems such as the ecosse, green and simota kits, suck in cold air from the gap between the bonnet and the bumper. They dont offer much noise but do increase power a lot. If you are more interested in a nice induction roar - go for an open K&N style filter or an s-spec stainless steel filter (currently this is what I have fitted to mine) but make sure to get some good cold air feeds up to the filter from the front bumper
A good filter will see you up to 80bhp (approx)
Exhaust
On later spec quiksilvers (2k and newer) the exhaust manifold has a catalytic convertor built into it and 2 lambda sensors, this makes changing the manifold tricky but a lot of companies have produced after market manifolds (GMC for instance)
These cost around £250 and will make a big improvement to the power of your car, but it will not pass an MOT without the cat
I had a 2.5″ bore stainless steel system made up from the manifold back with a silencer in the middle of the car and just a bare tail pipe at the back, it is fairly loud but the car made 87.5 bhp on the rollers - so obviously a free flowing exhaust makes quite an improvement to your power figures
At this stage your quiksilver will be about the same speed as a new model VTR
Pug sport exhausts are the most popular, and offer a great flow for a good price but looks are limited
Bodywork
Theres not much point in me talking about bodywork - its all up to personal taste and prices at bodyshops vary madly depending on the part of the country you are in
Delocking your doors is a must in my opinion as the 106 is badly designed in this area and any idiot with a screw driver can run off with your stereo 
Interior
I wont talk much here about roll cages and buckets because the stripped out look is relatively easy (and quite satisfying pulling your interior apart :D)
GTi leather interior is a great upgrade - the seats are a direct swap, as are the door cards. My interior cost me around £425 but is worth every single penny
I spent £20 on a carpet from an XSi as the mk1 carpets are very thick and luxurious - and this one is black which I like
I also got a roof lining from an XSi which is a dark grey colour, although I am now wanting to go back to a GTi style light grey colour to match the rest of the interior
If you have a 2k+ model with the digital dials you will notice no water temperature gauge and only a 120 top speed
I swapped my dials for some from a saxo VTR - these have a water temperature gauge and a 140 top speed
Its a straight swap and the temp gauge will work straight out the box so to speak
But you will lose the correct mileage on your car which is a bit of a problem
Saxo dials also have a white face with green glowing text at night which i like
My dials cost me £40 from ebay
ICE
Again this subject is totally down to personal preference
Front speakers are 13cm, rear are 10cm, both are easy to change just by removing the cover in the rear and the door tray on the doors